Ha! Always helpful. Thanks, I'll save that card and only play it if I have to. I have actually made some progress. I wound up scrolling thru Mouser.com and finding what looks like the right configuration but need to critically measure so I get the right size. They seem to have them in 0.1mm widths. I might get this done :) Would you know the part number for that pin?
and now... the post I have been dreaming about making. My tracker is fixed! Broken pin on the #2 injector wire at the ECM. What an easter egg hunt. Thanks to all, for the input. Special thanks to Rhinoman for information, technical advice, and (most of all) the patience. Still looking for the right contact but I do have a temporary but solid solution in place. I have put about 150 miles on it since Sunday and it seems to be running really well. Learned a lot. One thing is that I wouldn't make much money as a mechanic :) So I have my buggy back and am a happy boy.
334 is indeed 330nF/0.33uF. Email me some pictures of the capacitors and I will try to identify them, I will also try to find time to check one of the ECUs that I have here.
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
Wait... I did find something! forcing these old eyes to look closer, both C107 and C108 had some dark, gel-like substance at their front-most leads. One of them (C107, I think) was in the path to my dead #2 injector. so I pulled C107 - C110 out. C107's & C108's bottoms were distorted compared to the ones that did not leak. I plan to replace them all. The number on them is 2A334K and then on a second line HJ8B0 but this second parameter does not show up in any of my searches. From what I can tell (based on the 2A334K), it is a film-type, radial, 0.33uF (non-polar?) capacitor. Is there a preferred working voltage? Any tips on replacements? I have looked on DigiKey's and Mouser's websites so far. Thanks for any help :)
Thanks for the response, Rhinoman! Enjoyed looking around your website. With the weekend here, I will remeasure everything to make sure there I didn't miss anything. If no changes, that #2 output comes out for testing. Thanks for the verification. Wish me luck... I sure want my buggy back :)
if there are no obvious flaws then I would check the transistor that drives no2 injector, I don't have the reference number to hand but its fairly simple to trace the circuitry back from the connector pin.
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
new to this forum. I own a 98 chevy tracker. 1.6l, mpi, 3sp auto, 2wd, convertible. not a rocket but fun to drive. not my daily driver so I have time to play. in the past year, it began to toggle between running really well and still running reliably but with #2 cylinder missing. chug, chug, chug :) the code i got mas #2 cylinder misfire. so all new ignition parts, no change. swapped plugs, ignition wires, injectors between #1 and #2 cylinders... every time, pull the #2 spark plug and no change in engine behavior. the car then ceased toggling back to running well. so I got out my multimeter and went on a hunt. I was able to validate the injection harness on the engine from the injectors to C105 at the front of the engine and the one that runs from C105 to the ECM. I have continuity on all four injector wires and no shorts to ground. I cut the four injector wires near the ecm and inserted a terminal block for test points. from there, I used my oscope to look at the pulses. while running, the #1, #3, and #4 pulses were identical but #2 was a flat horizontal line at the bottom of the screen... dead, i think. I now blame the ecm and have pulled it. while technically capable (EE), don't see any obvious flaws in the board. nothing burnt, nothing leaking, no obviously broken or damaged traces. Any hints about what I might look for? Only operational flaw is inoperative #2 injector. Thanks in advance for any help.
