Having checked my TPS, there are four pins so I have done a research and pretty sure that idle switch signal is on pin 1 and 2. Based on the information, I should have got 0-500 ohm (0 V) at the idle but I got infinity so TPS needs to be adjusted.
Will work around and let you know the result. Again, thanks for your advice.
On most early models the idle switch is built into the TPS, on later models idle is determined as being when the TPS reads below a certain voltage. On some models there is an idle up function, driven by a solenoid or a motor, you should ensure that that is not stuck partially open and that the throttle cable has a small amount of slack in it.
What is TPS voltage at idle with the engine at normal operating temperature?
TPS opening is calculated from the idle position so it should always read 0 or thereabouts with the throttle closed.
Target idle may be at 800rpm but if the ECU never sees the idle switch closed then it won't ever enter closed loop idle control.
Fault codes will reoccur until the fault is fixed.
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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine 2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods 2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip 2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+ and many more.
Appreciate your reply. It's a bit embarrassing. I always know what my fault was but didn't realize that the fault code was showing on the main screen through MIL (just went back to read the manual and thanks for your advice).
Anyway, my fault code is code 44 - faulty idle switch. Possibly badly adjusted TPS or open circuit signal or ground connection.
Before I make any attempt, hopes you don't mind to clarify a few further questions.
1) Does this fault relate to the high RPM? - I noticed ECU has still called the RPM at 799 at the idle which is correct RPM but engine could not deliver it.
2) My TPS is showing 0% at the idle and increasing relatively with the pedal press and that's why I think the TPS itself is OK.
3) Is there an idle switch hardware physically installed or this is the interpretation of the position of TPS? I have gone through the FSM but didn't see the hardware of the idle switch.
4. This is not 100% sure but I recall it had gone sometimes when I recycled the power by removing the battery cable. Does it mean if the fault code is on the "current" side, I will never be able to reset it?
This is Victor from Thailand. A question regarding the high RPM at idle speed. Having tested my car with RV monitoring, here are the results. See attached pictured for more info.
1. With AC OFF, the ECU calls for the target idle at 799. The actual RPM was 1034. TPS was 0%. IAC was 38%.
2. With AC ON, the ECU calls for the target idle at 1003. The actual RPM was 1276. TPS was 0%. IAC was 98%.
At this point, considering TPS reading at 0% on both scenarios, can I conclude that my IAC has opened too much and I should clean it up or inspect it?
Is this a fair conclusion or you think there is other points I should further investigate?
