Thanks. The short answer is no. Unless you mean forged crankshaft and rods; then yes. The merge collector is cast, the exhaust manifold is cnc cut. I did all the cuts and spot welds on the stainless steel schedule 10 pipes and then had some else do the tig welding since I don't own a tig welder. I have only forged a couple things in my life myself; that is quite the process.
Great news! I fixed it. It turns out that pins number 27 & 28 should be soldered together. I was able to tell this by looking at my 90GT that is a F3, but has the same chip and slightly different traces, but they all go to the same place. When I was soldering in the 28 pin socket I thought I had bleed across pins 27 and 28. Being late at night I stupidly kept heating the pad until I of course lift the whole pad that actually has a single ground trace that ran underneath both pads. When the pads lifted so did the trace. I had called it a night at that point, and when I came back to it the next day I didn't remember and/or realize that the ground trace went to both. It even looks in the pictures like it just goes to pin 27 that I had soldered a jumper to. After jumping both pins, the check engine light is out, and the car smoothly revs up. I have not taken it for test drive yet as I was scrambling to get my 90GT back together to go home for dinner. Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions.
I did notice that my wideband at idle was running super high (18 to 19:1). The engine sounded right, but now I have to check for exhaust leaks in the brand new turbo ram horn exhaust manifold, and custom o2 housing with a custom down pipe.
Hopefully, it is just a matter of tightening down a v-band Marman flange, or re-calibrating the wideband.
On ECU information, the plug and connectors are the same on the I2 (this was on my 1992GT Swift) and F3 (this was on my 1990GT Swift) ECU, but I can't confirm if they are interchangeable as I don't own a 90FSM to confirm that each pin is the same pathway.
Yeah. I wasn't planning on swapping the good into the unknown. Just take a peak at the board. If the numbers on the ECU are the same I will try swapping in the bad to the working car to see what it does. Didn't think about trying that. That should rule out non-ecu related stuff. When I searched for a 92 ECU Ebay vendors are showing two ECU. The I2 89 to 92 and the F3 91 to 92. I'm curious now which one it will be.
I ran the diagnostic flow chart from the FSM and it gets me to a point where it says replace with known good working ECU. It also won't run diagnostic codes. I am still on the stock MAF, and at idle the turbocharger will read the exact same to the ECU (zero boost). It has no way to tell. I confirmed already with the stock chip which it currently is running on. It is the same. I verified every sensor is working properly according to specs. I am confident that it was the damage I did removing the stock chip to the pads, but I just don't see or find anything shorted or with bad continuity. I don't have a diagram of the circuits so there are some questions on what pathways should be connected. I'm going to pull my ECU from my other GT, and takes some pictures to verify passageways. I don't know if the 90 GT has the same ECU as the 92 ECU. One is a MK3 and one is a MK2 North American market. I guess I will find out shortly. It would be easier if someone had a ECU pathway diagram or some good pictures.
Yeah I don’t know if the 2 ecus are the same or not, I know there is difference in the intake manifold and camshafts but don’t know if the ecu pinouts are the same. I converted my engine to run on a Mitsubishi Mirage ecu in a Sierra so that it could be flash tuned.
may I suggest putting the socketed ecu into your non turbo gti to test as if there is wires swapped in the loom at least your not killing a known good ecu.
I ran the diagnostic flow chart from the FSM and it gets me to a point where it says replace with known good working ECU. It also won't run diagnostic codes. I am still on the stock MAF, and at idle the turbocharger will read the exact same to the ECU (zero boost). It has no way to tell. I confirmed already with the stock chip which it currently is running on. It is the same. I verified every sensor is working properly according to specs. I am confident that it was the damage I did removing the stock chip to the pads, but I just don't see or find anything shorted or with bad continuity. I don't have a diagram of the circuits so there are some questions on what pathways should be connected. I'm going to pull my ECU from my other GT, and takes some pictures to verify passageways. I don't know if the 90 GT has the same ECU as the 92 ECU. One is a MK3 and one is a MK2 North American market. I guess I will find out shortly. It would be easier if someone had a ECU pathway diagram or some good pictures.
I can't see anything wrong with that. There are no inner layers. Do you have a scope?
I do not have a scope. I did spend a few more hours today taking some illuminated shots. If you see anything wrong please let me know. I scrapped back a little bit more on I think pin 14 and soldered it again although it had test alright with the ohm meter.
-- Edited by 92SuzukiGT on Thursday 14th of May 2020 11:22:21 PM
-- Edited by 92SuzukiGT on Thursday 14th of May 2020 11:24:00 PM
I have tested both the bottom and top side for continuity and for shorts. If someone has a photo of both sides for me to compare it with it would be helpful to confirm that I did jump the right paths. Does anyone know if there is an in between layer as in a multi-layer board ( I don't see any evidence that there is, but still not 100%). I would like to try to salvage the board, but I'm about ready to jump to Megasquirt 2 if I cannot figure it out. I guess I will run jumper wires with cat5 to the next known open point, and try glue down a pad for the one that is still missing and hit it again with solder. I don't see a for sale posting in the site, but if someone has a replacement ECU for a 92 to 94 Suzuki Swift GT I would be interested in purchasing.
Hi. I was pointed in the direction of this site just today. I have a 92 Suzuki Swift GT and I removed the stock chip and soldered in a 18 pin socket to use a turbo chip coming out of Australia from Redlinegti.com. I had melted off a couple pads being a newbie on electronic soldering. I thought I had fixed the problem but upon completion of the rest of the turbo charged setup I am running into an ECU problems. The same problem occurs with the stock chip as with the turbo chip. The car will start (usually rough when I first fire it up; takes a few tries), it will idle (idling high 1250 after warm up). The main problem is that it will not rev up beyond 3000rpms; it will stumble and almost die if I press on the accelerator pedal to fast. The codes will not run, and the FSM diagnostic trouble shooting leads me to where it says switch ECU with known good working unit. The check engine light stays on solid unless I remove the B ECU plug. I'm attaching photos of the ECU cover below, the before and after images of the repaired area. Any advice would be appreciated.
ECU Cover
After desoldering stock chip
After soldering in socket an attempting fix:
I did check for shorts. The pin (I believe it is #2) without a pad test continuity to the next contact point. The other side of pin is soldered to pin. All the pins tested good continuity to the next contact point.
-- Edited by 92SuzukiGT on Tuesday 12th of May 2020 11:23:01 PM
-- Edited by 92SuzukiGT on Tuesday 12th of May 2020 11:27:58 PM
-- Edited by 92SuzukiGT on Tuesday 12th of May 2020 11:29:03 PM
