RhinoPower Ltd

TechSupport · Guru

RE: GEO 33920-56B30 ECU Trace Diagram

MIPS · Member

Your link is broken. hmm

TechSupport · Guru

Sorry, I frequently need a reminder. I have placed an image of the rear of the PCB here:

http://www.rhinopower.org/ECUs/56B30/images/56Bxx_back.jpg

MIPS · Member

Any luck with those photographs?

TechSupport · Guru

I'll try and get them taken tomorrow.

MIPS · Member

I see.

So I did it wrong. Well I hope that isn't the reason for my new troubles...

Would you also be able to get a photo of that area on the backside and both sides of the PCB around the cap up by the green connector and the heatsink'd transistors? It would be very much appreciated.

TechSupport · Guru

The auto will work you may even be able to convert it to an M/T by changing the config resistors if the firmware is the same. The number will be on the processor and be Exxx. I'd like to know what numbers you have anyway , I'm trying to build up a database. I have another picture now:

http://www.rhinopower.org/ECUs/56B70/images/traces.jpg

MIPS · Member

Looks like I'll have to go USB then.

That picture is good and I can see where D103 goes but D104 and C1 are still a mystery. Your capacitor is also far smaller than the one I have.

I locally found a replacement ECU as well. $20 to boot. It's for the automatic model of my car but some research suggests that the automatic ECU is interchangeable with the manual ECU (but the manual is not interchangeable with the automatic)

-- Edited by MIPS on Wednesday 18th of January 2012 08:30:00 PM

-- Edited by MIPS on Wednesday 18th of January 2012 08:32:01 PM

TechSupport · Guru

MIPS wrote:
Do you have any alternatives to the FTDI chip? A serial output instead of USB is preferred for me.

The FTDI chip is the most reliable that I have found, it needs to be USB unless you have a serial port that supports 7812 and 15625 baud.

TechSupport · Guru

This is the best I have at present:

http://www.rhinopower.org/ECUs/56B30/images/ECU_big.jpg

Ask if you need more detail, I have a scrap ECU that I can pull the caps from to get a picture of the traces.

MIPS · Member

PM sent.

That blob of solder is part of one of the original repairs. Next to it there is a hole someone drilled that a length of ware runs through to the other side to get around the fact that the leaking cap had eaten away the traces to the positive side of the capacitor.

Do you have any alternatives to the FTDI chip? A serial output instead of USB is preferred for me.

TechSupport · Guru

That adapter is a poor design and rarely works. The main problem is that very few serial ports support the baud rate used by the Suzuki ECU. Thats one of the reasons why I use the FTDI chip, it can work at the speeds that we need.

That looks abit of a mess, the via through the PCB seems to have been rpped out and I don't know what that solder blob is doing there, a bodged repair maybe? PM me your email address and I will send you some HQ pictures of the PCB. I have some rough circuit drawings but nothing on the PC.

MIPS · Member

It all started with troubleshooting why this adapter was refusing to work between my ECU and the engine manager but when I accidentially dropped a test lead and shorted +12V to the ECU's data line, I had no choice to take out the then working (It worked still but now I couldn't communicate with it at all) ECU and inspect what I ahd blown up.

Immediately I ran into bigger issues.

Both Rubycon capacitors had leaked. The result was that they had eaten away surrounding traces and caused high resistance shorts which had burned up other traces and left a nice hole in the board. There was also indications that this was also the case back on September 8 2000 when someone else noticed the same issue and patched several damaged traces and replaced the capacitors....I hope.

Anyways, this time it was a lot worse and I pulled the capacitor pictured above out with no effort. I cleaned up the surrounding areas and fixed the traces I knew had relations and put it back together even though I didn't see where the "pop" from my mistake was.

Unfortunately now the ECU is a veg. If it's not starting but immediately stopping it's idling very rough with surges. the CHECK ENGINE light is now also constantly on. I can't even output blink error codes so it's obviously in a state where it's saying "you have gotten this far so you are obviously at your authorized Suzuki repair center".

It's possible the problem is still with the traces I could not find ends for but I'll need the diagram or better yet, pictures of both sides of my PCB.