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Post Info TOPIC: Dual chip on stock Swift GTi ECU


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Dual chip on stock Swift GTi ECU
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Hi, I'm bringing this thread up again because I just removed the ECU from my Swift, and I saw that both my OEM ECU and my chipped ECU are I2.
If I understand well what you said me, from an hardware perspective I'm already able to flash two maps on a 27c256 EPROM; I need to modify the ECU to just switch between memory portions of the same switch.

Can you please provide me the original I2 .bin file? The link on your site seems to be broken... I plan to read my chipped eprom and to flash its .bin together with your original I2 .bin; I'dont like to deal with my oem ecu because the chip is still soldered on the pcb and I don't want to risk it, I need it to pass MOT-like tests...

Thank you very much,
Marco



-- Edited by Locurtola on Monday 6th of October 2014 04:10:41 PM

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You can do this on the I3 if you use the switch to toggle the correct address line. From what I recall, A15 is the chip select and A14 selects the top half of the address map so you would need to toggle A13 to select the top or bottom half of the 256k chip.

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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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f5 u can change the "side" of the eprom with pull up resistor and switch, i3 i didn't tried but i noticed the ecu is doing already that because of is written code only in the top part of the 256k rom, and the board has in the eprom circuit doing inversion of sides.



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The 'F' ECUs and the 'I' ECUs are a little different but I'm sure that you could switch binaries from an 'I' something to an 'I' something else. When you reflash the chips you need to ensure that the file length is correct for your chip, from what I recall the 'F' series have a 128byte memory and the 'I' series a 256 byte memory.

 The FLASH board is being modified a little because the original connectors that I used were too expensive.



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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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Hi James,

I have to check ECU part numbers; I know they're different (maybe F3 and F5), but they works correctly with the engine.

Is it possible to flash the I3 .bin you posted on your site on a different ECU with same features (i.e. O2 sensor input insted of afr trimmer) ? At this step, I'm not interested on perfect engine performance, I need the stock "image" just to pass MOT...

I can retrieve a stock .bin from my oem ECU, but I'm a little bit scary about desoldering chip: it's a simple task but on the other ECU something goes wrong and I wouldn't risk my good ecu... 

I read the thread about your flash mod with interest, if it's possible for you I'd like to know more details; I can think to implement it even if it's a step more from my needs...



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I do have a design for a daughterboard that will allow a Flash memory device to be fitted, that would allow up to four definitions to be loaded and selected by a switch. Which ECU do you have?

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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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Hi everybody!

I have a problem, and I think here I can find a solution to it.

Many years ago I bought a 1995 mk3 Swift GTi from a friend of mine. He mounted a "race chip", one of that eprom you can find on ebay, desoldering the stock one. First time I had to pass the local version of UK MOT test, I missed it due to bad exhuast gas; it seemed that the cat was not working. I tried to replace the race chip with the stock one but the car started only on a sort of protection mode, rough idle and nothing over 2500 rpm (probably the stock chip was ruined by disassembling it).

Long story short, I had to buy another ECU and I actually have to swap them before each exhaust test... not very confortable.

I'd like to mount some sort of daughterboard on one ECU, and fit on it the two chips; I'll then choose the one to use (with the engine turned off) via a switch that act on the output enabled pin. This should leave output pins on the stand by device to high impedance, so it should not be a problem to leave it connected in parallel to the working chip. Do you think that it could work?

I need to find a cheap eprom programmer (I was looking for Willem) to flash chips; if I flash the .bin found on this site, I should be able to generate a new oem mapped chip, right?

I'm a noob in ecu world, but I have some electronic knowledge... My first goal is to simplify ECU swap, but in the future I'd like to try to do some fine tuning on "race chip", since it's just a little bit too "rough"...

Thank you for the help!



-- Edited by Locurtola on Wednesday 15th of May 2013 08:59:46 AM



-- Edited by Locurtola on Wednesday 15th of May 2013 09:16:16 AM

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