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Post Info TOPIC: Suzuki Mini project


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Suzuki Mini project
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The electric load I would ignore for now, if you have problems with the idle when the heater and demister is on then wire them in. C14 needs to be 12V whenever you want the ECU to be on so it should be wired up to turn on with the ignition and go off with the ignition. B9 should be battery voltage when cranking. B12 should be the be the O2 sensor output wire, one of the white wires should go to B1 and the other two wires were probably spliced into a ground wires near the ECU, the sensor ground to B16 and the heater ground to one of the blue/white power grounds



-- Edited by Rhinoman on Wednesday 29th of May 2013 07:59:36 PM

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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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So today I spent some time labeling the wires coming from the ECU connectors by their pin out locations and then went through the mass of wires in the car and used their colors to establish which pin out they need to connect to, and labeled them. That all went a lot smoother than I was expecting and I think I have almost everything correctly marked up. I do however have one or to puzzles? First I dont know what to do about the "Electric Load" gubbins from pin C16 obviously my car will have lights a heater and rear window defogger but does the ECU really need to know what they are doing? I also wondered if C14 is just looking for +ve 12v when the key is turned to on and crank? I have clearly wasted some time and money on that de-bounce lol but no harm no foul, I only spent 5 or 6 quid on the parts and I do love the smell of solder flux! The most puzzling turn up today was to do with the "heated O2 sensor" what I have on the car is.... the sensor with 4 wires coming from it black, black, blue and white, then after 20cm of wire a connector where the wires change color to black>black/white, black>white with grey flecks, blue>white and white>black. I established B16 using the IAT and B1 I had established as of the two white ones post  connector using a continuity test. B12 on the other hand I was unable to locate, I could spend some more time and continuity test every remaining wire with the 3 other wires on the sensor but had had enough of it by the end and decided to ask for some clues.      



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You managed to sort out the pins, thats good, the wire colours are usually fairly standard so you shouldn't have too many 'wrong' coloured wires. You won't need the debounce circuitry as its done in the ECU.

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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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There has been a little more progress, having been told what I was doing wrong I was then able to move the contacts about in the OBD1 connectors that I acquired when I bought the wrong ECU in order for them to be in the correct place for when I get the right ECU. The wire colors are now meaningless but at least there are contacts in all the places I need them. Wiring up will need to be done based on pin location and not wire color but I can handle that...

 

 

now all I need to do is join that little lot to this little lot...

 

 

I am told its not to hard :)

 



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Right, well I have got the engines loom (or what I have of it) back on the engine and have the cooling system hooked up and the brake cylinder/servo in place. All of which leaves me very little space to play with...

 

 

And I have made a means for my mechanical speedo to put out a VSS signal using a reed switch....

 

 

and a de-bounce circuit for that...

 

 

Me and Rhinoman have been exchanging emails in order to establish exactly what will be involved in hooking up the ecu and immobliser and he has been letting me know what I do and dont need to attach to the ecu, thankfully the power stearing and evap tank inputs can be ignored :) 

I am crawling slowly towards fitting the ECU and have most of the info and most of the parts I will need, just not the actual ecu lol

I am looking forward to a test run of the engine, it will be very satisfying to hear it run! 



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I am sure that with the right diagrams and knowhow hooking up the space shuttle is fairly straight forward lol The problem I have is I dont realy know what i'm doing most of the time, I just sort of figuer it out as I go along. And as for the EFI I would love to get the engine going in whatever way is best so just tell me what I need to do? So you think finding the swift immo parts wont be to hard, can you let me know exactly what it is i'm looking for then and i will go shopping on ebay etc.

I assume you are happy to sell me the ecu? 

As for the space in the engine bay yes there is not much room to spare as you can see, but I can get the front on...

 

 

I still need to squeeze in a radiator (a motorbike one at that, so wont be to hard)

But they are road legal tires (cool right!) biggrin

And I am just between Taunton and Wellington 

 oh and im to chicken to race it round a track lol I like the engineering more than the driving. 



-- Edited by Phatwiji on Tuesday 23rd of April 2013 03:48:06 PM



-- Edited by Phatwiji on Wednesday 24th of April 2013 08:56:13 AM

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The immo isn't too difficult to hook up and the stock ECU is far superior to an MS, if its a stock or mildly tuned engine, as well as being much cheaper.

That looks like a tight squeeze in the engine bay. Is it going to be a track car? those tyres don't look like road tyres.

Wherabouts are you in Somerset?



-- Edited by Rhinoman on Tuesday 23rd of April 2013 01:18:45 PM

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1984 Suzuki SJ413K pick up, 1.6 16V Baleno engine
2000 Suzuki Vitara 1.6 8V, many mods
2004 Suzuki Ignis 1.5VVT 4Grip
2006 Suzuki Jimny 1.3VVT JLX+
and many more.



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Or, here's another thought, is there another suzuki ECU that will run a G13BA with the hardware that is on mine but with out the need for all the immobiliser nonsense? I realise that each ECU is exactly tailored to each car but my engine isnt in a swift anyway so even with the right ECU some fine tuning will be out, my car will be lighter, smaller wheels so shorter gear ratios, the VSS is home made by me so F knows what that will be like lol. I am not looking for perfection and I am not trying to build a max power racer, I just want to make it work and for it to be better than a poxy A+ engine lol oh and have 5 gears   

 



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I do wonder if at this stage it may be as well to go for a megasquirt of somthing like that, at least then I can scrap all this immo crap? I relise I will need some help to get it all set up, but then its not like I know what i'm doing at the moment anyway!

 

 



-- Edited by Phatwiji on Tuesday 23rd of April 2013 01:10:06 PM

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About a year ago now I started on this project to put a suzuki swift engine into a mini for full details on that you can read my diary at ..http://www.minifinity.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=186&t=91117 I was given a swift engine and gearbox to put in but at that time was blissfully unaware of the need to have an ECU if I had known I may have thought again as it is somthing I know very little about. But this is the situation I find myself in I have a mini with a suzuki swift enging and gearbox in it, most of a mini wiring loom half a swift's loom, no ECU, some OBD1 connectors and not a very good idea of what I am doing!

 

here is a picture of the mini with the engine in...

 

I am now very much in need of walking through what is needed to make this engine work, I have most things sorted except the electrical side of things, and now I learn I may need to go down the immo route as well no I even dont want an immo, where I live I dont know a single person who has had a car stolen lol

 

Anyway rhinoman has been helping me out a bit so hopefully I will get there in the end.



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